The Ultimate Guide to Korean Sunscreens— Are Outdated FDA Standards Impacting Western Health?
KOREAN VS. WESTERN SPF
When it comes to skincare, sunscreen is arguably one of the most essential products for protecting your skin from harmful UV rays. However, not all sunscreens are created equal. In recent years, Korean sunscreens have gained massive popularity in the beauty community, often praised for their superior formulas, texture, and effectiveness. But why are Korean sunscreens considered better than their Western counterparts? And why has the U.S. FDA not updated its SPF ingredients standards since the 90s? Let’s dive in.
1. Advanced Formulations
One of the standout features of Korean sunscreens is their innovative formulations. Korean beauty (K-beauty) is known for its dedication to blending skincare with cosmetics, and sunscreen is no exception. Korean sunscreens are typically lightweight, non-greasy, and absorb quickly into the skin, leaving behind a soft, matte finish. This makes them ideal for daily wear under makeup, especially for those with oily or acne-prone skin.
In contrast, many Western sunscreens can feel thick, heavy, or sticky, especially the higher SPF formulas. This texture often leads to users avoiding sunscreen altogether, which defeats the purpose of sun protection. Korean brands, on the other hand, focus on creating sunscreens that feel more like skincare, which encourages regular use.
Below are two twins who had a significant difference in the amount of sun exposure they received during their lifetime. The twin on the right had about 10 more hours per week of sun exposure than the twin on the left had. Regardless of whether or not your sunscreen is Korean, it’s crucial to wear it EVERY. DAY.
While we can’t reverse sun damage, we can prevent it from worsening. Unprotected sun exposure causes DNA damage in skin cells and, with prolonged exposure, cell death. Protect yourself. Skin cancer is not only a hinderance, it can be deadly.
2. Broad-Spectrum Protection
Another significant advantage of Korean sunscreens is their ability to provide broad-spectrum protection. Broad-spectrum sunscreens protect against both UVA and UVB rays, which are both harmful to the skin. UVA rays penetrate deeper into the skin and are responsible for premature aging and wrinkles, while UVB rays are the primary cause of sunburns and can increase the risk of skin cancer.
Korean sunscreens are generally known for offering better protection against UVA rays due to their more stringent regulations. They often use advanced ingredients like PA+++ and PFA (Protection Factor of UVA) ratings, which provide clearer indications of how well a product protects against UVA radiation. Western sunscreens, on the other hand, often focus on UVB protection (SPF rating) and don't emphasize UVA protection’s importance.
3. The Popularity of Chemical Filters
Korean sunscreens often incorporate chemical filters, which absorb UV rays and convert them into heat to protect the skin. These chemical filters tend to be more effective at providing broad-spectrum protection compared to physical (mineral) sunscreens, which use ingredients like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. Many Korean sunscreens utilize cutting-edge ingredients like avobenzone and tinosorb, which have been proven to offer superior protection.
While some Western sunscreens also use chemical filters, there is a growing preference in the U.S. for mineral sunscreens due to concerns about certain chemical ingredients causing skin cancer. This misinformation is not only false, it’s dangerous. There is no scientific evidence supporting this argument. What we DO know is that the sun causes skin cancer.
Another reason chemical sunscreen is jumping the charts is that mineral sunscreens can sometimes leave a white cast and feel heavy on the skin, leading to lower compliance with sunscreen use.
4. The FDA and Outdated SPF Standards
One of the most surprising aspects of sunscreen in the U.S. is that the last time the FDA approved a new active sunscreen ingredient for broad use was in 1999.
While sunscreens in Korea are continuously evolving and becoming more effective, the U.S. has stuck with the same outdated regulations.
The FDA's standards primarily focus on SPF (Sun Protection Factor), which measures the sunscreen’s ability to block UVB rays. However, as we mentioned earlier, SPF only indicates protection against UVB rays, not the more deeply penetrating UVA rays. This is a major limitation, as both UVA and UVB rays contribute to skin aging and cancer risk. The FDA’s guidelines also fail to address more modern sunscreen ingredients, some of which have shown to provide superior protection.
When SPF regulations were first established, the focus was primarily on preventing sunburn. However, we now know that UVA rays are equally important in the conversation about skin health and aging. As a result, U.S. sunscreens often fall short when compared to their Korean counterparts, which emphasize both UVA and UVB protection.
5. The Push for New Standards
In recent years, experts have advocated for the FDA to update its sunscreen regulations to reflect current scientific understanding of UV radiation and skin protection. This includes incorporating better UVA protection and ensuring more accurate labeling that informs consumers about the full spectrum of sun damage.
The FDA has made some moves in the past few years, such as proposing new rules around sunscreen ingredients, but full updates and changes have been slow. Meanwhile, countries like South Korea have already embraced advanced formulas and updated regulations, which explains why Korean sunscreens are often viewed as the gold standard in sun protection.
What Does This Mean for You?
As a consumer, it’s important to choose a sunscreen that not only meets your aesthetic and skin needs but also provides the best protection. While Western sunscreens still offer adequate protection, Korean sunscreens often deliver superior results in terms of texture, broad-spectrum protection, and overall skincare benefits.
For those looking for an effective sunscreen that feels light, absorbs quickly, and offers enhanced protection against both UVA and UVB rays, Korean sunscreens are often the best option. Until the U.S. revises its regulations to account for these advancements, Korean sunscreens are likely to remain ahead of the curve in offering better and more effective sun protection.
